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The first time Ari South appeared on “Project Runway All Stars” in 2013, she was the first cast member to be eliminated. So when she agreed to return as part of the show’s sixth season, which premiered last week on Lifetime, South was determined to simply make it to the second episode.

“My goal for the first episode was to not go home,” she said Wednesday with a laugh. “It was such a contrast from (my experience during) the regular season of ‘Runway.’ To go home early, I wasn’t used to that.”

The Hawaii fashion designer finished third on Season 8 of the regular “Project Runway” series in 2010, when she was known as Andy South.

Nearly seven years after her original “Runway” stint — and now living as a transgender woman — South runs a clothing factory in Chinatown and produces her own brands of apparel and accessories for both men and women under the Andy South and Ari South labels. She said the national and international publicity that comes with “Runway” was another reason to return.

“At this point, for all of us who have been on the show before, to go back to ‘All-Stars’ is just another way that we can be visible,” she said. “As stressful as it is and as political as it can get, it’s still a lot of fun.

“We’re all designers who have gone through the same thing that no one else has gone through. And it’s just fun to see your fans excited about your work.”

The current season of “All Stars” is set up as “Rookies vs. Veterans,” with South assigned to the latter group. Although the Rookies won the first challenge, South’s design finished third overall and was named the best of her team’s by judges Georgina Chapman, Isaac Mizrahi and former contestant Michael Costello, who finished fourth behind South in 2010.

According to Lifetime, the challenge for this week’s second episode is to create “distressed fashion for a post-apocalyptic runway.”

South pointed out episodes airing this season were filmed quite some time ago, and loyal fans and social media followers noticed almost immediately.

“We filmed back in 2016, two summers ago,” she said. “It’s been almost two years, which is no secret, so a lot of us don’t look the same (as now). We don’t know if we’ll do a reunion episode this season, but the competition portion is all done.”

Besides her “All Stars” appearance this season, South plans to appear as a vendor at the Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo in April, followed by a fashion show and pop-up shop at the Maoli Arts Month (MAMo) Wearable Arts Show at Hawaii Theatre on May 30 and May 31, and then a trip to Japan.

“We’ve been doing a lot of pop-ups recently because there’s so much demand,” she said. “And there are the fans who really miss the stuff I used to do, so it’s nice to kind of bring some of that back again, both on ‘All Stars’ and here at home.

“In the next month or so we’ll start to bring some of that stuff back. It’ll be a combination of everything I’ve done in the different phases of my career.”

“Project Runway All Stars” airs at 7 p.m. Thursdays on Lifetime. Find South’s designs online at shop.Read more at:white formal dresses | blue formal dresses

yellowmode Jan 11, 03:36AM · Tags: fashion

Having shelled out for- and likely become quite attached to - the sequin skirts, velvet mules and chainmail earrings you were wearing over the festive period, you might have assumed that the arrival of January meant that you needed to stow them away until next festive season. But fear not, the parties being over doesn't mean all the joy-giving accoutrements can't be put to good use.

Here's how to incorporate your favourite party pieces into your everyday wardrobe and continue wearing them now it's the new year...

Dull down sequins

If you're going to keep wearing sparkle in January you will need to adjust the look. Less is more, for one. While you might have been encouraged to wear sequins on sequins in December, this is no longer feels quite right. Dress them down with slouchy shapes, luxe fabrics and utilitarian designs. Think a sequin skirt with a navy polo neck (see main picture), or consider splitting up the sequin co-ord you donned on New Year's Eve by teaming the trousers with an enormous mohair knit in green or grey, or the embellished top with a pair of check trousers.

Incorporate denim

Denim will be your saving grace when it comes to reworking party gear, instantly granting it a more casual feel. And whereas a tuxedo jacket dressed down with a pair of Mom jeans, or an indigo-wash jacket layered over a diaphanous silk blouse might be fairly obvious examples of this, you can also think outside the box. A kimono-style dress worn over cropped jeans, for example, or a denim pencil skirt styled with an embellished jacket are chic combinations that will also help combat the January blues.

Don't put down the embellished arm candy

While a backless ball gown might have a limited window of wearability which probably doesn't include January, a jewelled clutch bag, or a sequinned pouch (the party bag du jour), does not. Both are perennially suitable evening accessories that can be worn with printed midi dresses or a logo sweatshirt and luxe tracksuit bottoms alike, regardless of the season or the occasion.

Live in velvet

Long gone are the days when velvet was considered the preserve of party season. And good riddance to them, because this sumptuous fabric is flattering, comfortable and glamorous all at once. What's more, it's one of the most versatile materials around.

Velvet trousers with white trainers and a sweatshirt? Ideal for mooching around on the weekend. The same trousers worn with a cotton shirt? Perfect office attire. And with the matching blazer? A stylish solution for a birthday dinner.

Be sparing with the jazzy jewellery

Chandelier earrings, XL cuffs and grown-up chokers, to name a few of the manifold styles of party jewellery we witnessed last season, needn't be stowed away until next Christmas. Quite the opposite in fact. But you do need to take a more moderate approach that you might at Christmastime.

Rather than piling it on in the same way you would decorated your tree, limit yourself to one piece of statement jewellery and let it stand out against cosy knitwear and simple shirting.

Bypass the smoky eye

If you've chosen to wear your favourite jewelled shoes or brocade jacket in January, then opt for light make-up. Not only do you risk looking a little over the top with gold eye shadow or plum lipstick at this time of year, but it will also put an upper limit on how jazzy you can go with clothing, whereas a dewy finish (minimal makeup brand Glossier can lend a helping hand here), will grant your partywear a fresh twist for the new year.Read more at:formal dresses online | formal dresses 2017

yellowmode Jan 5, 01:33AM · Tags: fashion

In November Prince Harry announced his engagement with long-time girlfriend Meghan Markle, making another commoner a part of the British royal family. A known face in Hollywood, Meghan has always been in the public eye. But being part of a royal family brings extra attention.

As she attended the Royal Family’s traditional Christmas Day service at the Queen’s Sandringham estate, it was Meghan’s hat that caught the public eye. The Suits actress opted for a felted wool tobacco-hued face-framing hat to complement her dress.

Soon enough, her hat caught the Internet’s attention comparing it to the poo emoji.

However, when you’re in the limelight, experts say that you must keep a few protocols in mind, with regards to your presentation.

Meghan’s instance is one most face on a daily basis — dressing appropriately for a public event. Stylist Eshaa Amiin explains that one needs to understand the occasion well, and then choose an outfit. “Meghan’s outfit was big of a mismatch,” explains the stylist, adding, “If it is a formal event, one can opt for a dress in dark colours or probably a trench coat. While Meghan opting for a trench coat wasn’t bad, she could have chosen something vibrant.”

Alternatively, Eshaa lists out options to dress sartorially for such events. “One can even pick a pantsuit, a dress suit or skirt suit. If you want to go for something feminine, you can also opt for stockings.”

Fashion designer Amy Billimoria believes it is important to take the timing of the event while zeroing in on an outfit. “If it is a day event, opt for light colours like mint, peaches and nude colours,” she adds.

If a hat is important for an event, Eshaa insists on working the outfit around it. “It is important, first find the right hat to compliment your face type. Choosing a dress should be secondary,” she smiles.

So, should one stick to the classics or have a scope for little imagination and experiment with looks? “I would advise people to experiment. You just need to keep in mind the body type, use a classic and opt for a statement accessory,” advises Amy.

Explaining how Michale Obama experimented with designers but never stepped out from the sophistication zone and the dignity of being a first lady, Eshaa suggests on experimenting with colour. “Experiments can be done with statements. For example, Princess Diana always made a statement while experimenting with different looks,” she adds.

According to life coach Khyati Birla, looking right is more important than looking fashionable and that at a public event focus is on the audience. “At a formal event, it makes sense to look right, if necessary, one should consult a stylist. At a public event even as the crowd maybe receptive to fashion, it is the occasion that needs to be in focus.” She instances that at a Hindu wedding, it is not advisable to be boldly experimental in black, since it may offend people at a much larger level. “One needs to understand that the event isn’t about them, but about the occasion,” she concludes.Read more at:formal dress shops | sexy formal dresses

yellowmode Dec 29 '17, 03:37AM · Tags: fashion

Costume designer Jane Greenwood has been nominated for a Tony Award 21 times, winning finally this year. Her follow-up to that achievement is “The Parisian Woman,” in which she is tasked with dressing Uma Thurman as a wealthy, sharp and scheming Washington wife in Trump’s Washington.

Greenwood began by consulting “those enormous tomes that come from Europe with all those designer’s clothes” for a launching point, and found designers’ work in tailoring like Rei Kawakubo’s to be inspiring. Yet when it came time to dress Thurman’s character, Chloe, only her first outfit was purchased (a pair of jeans, a man’s button down, a gray Stella McCartney coat and an Yves Saint Laurent scarf, worn with Thurman’s own kitten heels). The rest was made custom.

“You don’t really want to have a dress that somebody in the audience could be sitting in. We wanted to make it a little more make-believe,” Greenwood explains. “So we ended up actually making four out of the five outfits.”

Modern-day D.C. was the biggest source of inspiration, naturally.

“I looked at a lot of research for women in Washington — curiously there were a lot of pictures going online to look at but [also] just in the news daily — there were a lot of people to observe,” she says. “It’s important to really nail the two ladies who were in Washington, and to give Chloe somewhat of a different beat because she really is in a way an outsider. She is very malleable in that she can go into a lot of different situations with ease, but she doesn’t have any particular position.”

Another reason for making custom clothing was to honor the woman who is interested in looking nice and put together, but for whom fashion isn’t a main interest.

“I’m not sure that [Chloe] was driven by fashion — we felt that so much is that she wore clothes that were clothes for what occasion,” Greenwood says. “She was very good at being dressed so that she was absolutely in the right look for the right place that she was going to be.”

And while the women in the news cycle gave life to much of how Chloe looks, notably it was not the Trump women who Greenwood looked to.

“Not so much Ivanka and Melania, because they are very much sort of items of what they are representing right now,” she says. “And I think Chloe has a lot of different people of mix with, so she needs to be a little bit more a chameleon. I tried to give her a look that made her able to be part of wherever she was.”Read more at:formal dresses | formal dresses brisbane

yellowmode Dec 20 '17, 01:34AM · Tags: fashion

Actresses - including presenters and nominees - are reportedly planning to wear black to the Golden Globe Awards on January 7. The decision, which is yet to be officially confirmed, follows the move made by Screen Actors Guild Award organisers to have all-female presenters on January 21.

The all-black dress code is a bid to draw attention to the deluge of sexual misconduct and abuse allegations that have rocked Hollywood since Harvey Weinstein's assault allegations became public in October.

According to The Hollywood Reporter, "There was a recent meeting at talent agency CAA about how to achieve gender equality in the industry (the agency is also taking the 50/50 by 2020 pledge), there was talk of a new protocol for the red carpet, [as it is] one of the biggest platforms for women in Hollywood.

'There was discussion of crafting some sort of talking points,' said a source."

This might prove difficult to execute as numerous designers, fashion labels and stylists rely on the promotion of their dresses at these red carpet events to boost publicity and sales. The Golden Globes in particular, is the award show known for fashion flair and experimentation, whereas the Oscars, the crown jewel of award ceremonies, is known for more conservative fashion choices.

Still, this could turn into a massive "all in" moment of solidarity for actresses, designers and stylists alike. Karla Welch, for example, is the biggest stylist in the game right now, and is responsible for the outfits of Elisabeth Moss, Sarah Paulson, Tracee Ellis Ross, while being equally well-known for her feminist resistance, and social conscience on her Instagram, so it is possible.

In case you've been hiding out in a man cave, Weinstein is only the tip of a hideous sexual assault iceberg, that includes director and producer, Bryan Singer, Oscar-winning actor Kevin Spacey, Emmy-winning director Matthew Weiner, Golden Globe winner, Jeffrey Tambour, Oscar-winner Dustin Hoffman, director Brett Ratner, Emmy-winner Matt Lauer, Amazon studio head Roy Price, Pixar chief and award-winning producer, John Lasseter, Oscar-winner Woody Allen, award-winning actor and director, Louis CK, Emmy-winner Jeremy Piven, Oscar-winner Ben Affleck, and alleged rapist James Toback.

​Wearing a black dress, or even a black suit, (Heya Evan Rachel Wood!) is an admirable, obviously visible way to draw attention to what is clearly an epidemic of not just gender inequality but criminal behaviour. The only slight concern is that, like so much of what the Hollywood community says it stands for, this might be construed as a token effort at confronting a problem so huge, and so ugly, it effects literally everyone in the business. Wearing black is a start, but let's hope that what follows is not just resignations and half-baked apologies, but jail terms.Read more at:cheap formal dresses | marieaustralia

yellowmode Dec 15 '17, 02:42AM · Tags: fashion

Forty-three girls are competing in the inaugural World Miss Tourism Ambassador 2017 pageant which will be held at the Resorts World Manila in Pasay City on Saturday, December 9.

With the advocacy “beauty with a mission,” the event focuses on promoting tourism, culture and mutual understanding.

Tour of Manila — Candidates of the World Miss Tourism Ambassador pageant pose during a tour of Intramuros, Manila recently. The grand finals of the contest will be held at the Resorts World Manila in Pasay City on Dec. 9.

“The winner of the pageant will embark on an exciting journey full of glamour, mission and responsibility. She will travel the world and promote the cause of organization,” said WMTA founder and CEO Justin Tran of Vietnam.

At the press presentation held at One Canvass in Makati City, Miss Russia Aidbedullina Talliya; Miss South Africa Talitha Bothma, 1st runner-up; and Miss Lithuania Vaida Azuolaityte and Miss Chile Francisca Cebllos, tied, 2nd runner-up.

The candidates paraded in their swimwear and embarked on question-and-answer with members of the press.

In the contest, there are two representatives each from the Philippines, South Africa, Russia, India and China.

The Philippine candidates are Aliyana Ibnohajil and Karen Ivy Marie Eje.

One of the highlights of the media presentation was the tourism-inspired fashion week that showcased the best designers, brands and trends.

The show unveiled the fashion trends, styles and designs with the candidates as runway models.

Tran said the runway show is also one of the challenges for the candidates.

Among the professional designers who presented their collections are Dak Bonite, Mark dela Peña, Russell Yasay and swimwear designer Sonny Boy Mindo.

Also present at the launch were WMTA president Ben Nguyen and Prime Event Productions Philippines Foundation president Carlo Morris Galang.Read more at:formal evening dresses | year 10 formal dresses

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yellowmode Dec 4 '17, 03:54AM · Tags: fashion

35-year-old Indian origin, UK based fashion designer Ayush Kejriwal has taken the world of fashion as well as social media by storm. While carving a niche for himself and doing something different, he has explored working on socially relevant designs. An exploration of Indian Art on it’s fabric treasures to create statement pieces. The responses have naturally led him down the path of using his work for campaigning with his work both on social and offline media.

Keeping It Real

“I work on designing clothes that anybody and everybody can identify with and relate to in terms of personal style.”

Conceptualising and creating a line that everybody can wear and carry naturally is what Ayush concentrates on. His creations include designs, silhouettes and pieces that are for people who are not afraid to dabble with bold and ground breaking designs in Indian wear. A definite focus on a larger, empowered clientele and not just celebrities, models etc. can be seen.

A point he makes here is to design and showcase his line on a range of South Asian women of varied skin colours. Faced with the frequently asked question– “I am quite dark, do you have something for me?” has driven Ayush to prove through his work that, “How we look should not dictate how we live our lives.”

Signature Style & Bespoke Colors

“I design for the woman, who is brave and rebel enough to not let the skin colour or body type dictate what she wears.”

Ayush Kejriwal’s creations are characterised by a brilliant interplay of colours and patterns that standout separately and when put together blend harmoniously for an explosive style statement. The vivid clash of vintage colours and prints to create a modern ensemble is what he is best at. Look no further for sarees that are works of art, indulgent Anarkalis and Lehengas and a trousseau so different as to be aspired to by women with an edge to their own personality and style.

Ayush Kejriwal feels passionately about his bias towards the use of blue, purple and other bold colours in designing for the neo-Indian woman who isn’t afraid to go for the bold look in wearable Indian Art.

Heirloom Handlooms

“India has such a rich offering of handlooms that I love experimenting with fabrics and textures in the work I do.”

A given lover of the handloom heritage of India, one can clearly make this out in the designs that Ayush creates. Every piece carries craftsmanship in using divergent fabric, textiles and weaves from across India. The result is nothing short of heirloom pieces that are such as to be passed on and treasured across generations. But just like everyone else, a designer especially has his favourites.

When asked his reply will be, “Bhagalpuri Matka Silks and Patola of course!”

Timeless over Trendy

“There is no particular trend I follow, for I try to make each one of my designs timeless in appeal.”

For Ayush, the love affair is in using a lot of different elements in creating his works. Absolutely not a follower of trends, he uses a mixture of classic, contemporary and experimental elements in designing wardrobe masterpieces that stand out in his signature craftsmanship. His clientele is eloquent in their admiration for this unique feature of the designer.

His Best Work So Far

“Every piece that I create is my personal best and a favourite that is close to my heart and soul.”

Protesting the notion of something that can be called ‘the best outfit’ that he has designed, Ayush is very candid in telling us that he prefers to design a limited number of pieces over hundreds. This lets him make each one of them a dedicated effort and exclusive creation of his craftsmanship.

Styling Celebrities

“Vidya Balan is known for setting herself apart and carving a different genre for herself. Her wearing my design goes on to prove that good taste in good clothes can be very much relatable in the real world.”

As one of Vidya Balan’s favourite designers, he shares that he does not create differently for a celebrity brand image. Ayush makes it a point to extend the theme of his dressing for all who would like ‘to wear him’. The emphasis on creating designs for everyone is what he does for celebrities as well, a refreshing take on the world of glamour and high fashion.Read more at:marieaustralia.com | long formal dresses

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yellowmode Nov 30 '17, 02:43AM · Tags: fashion

ABOUT 24 Indonesian fashion designers and entrepreneurs are going to showcase their products at the 1st Indonesia Fashion Expo which will open tomorrow November 24 and will last until November 26 at Abreeza Ayala Malls.

According to Indonesian Consulate General in Davao City Berlian Napitupulu, the fashion expo is part of their office’s initiative of improving the bilateral trade relationship between Indonesia and the Philippines as it had been dormant for the past year.

“On the fashion expo, they will showcase different textiles, garments, bags, leather products, shoes, and accessories. During the expo, there will also be business matchings that we will be conducting,” Napitupulu said.

He added the fashion designers and entrepreneurs will mostly be coming from Java Island and Bali but have before invited participants from Sulawesi as well. Napitupulu said the fashion expo is expected to attract the Muslim fashion market as there are a lot of Muslim in Davao City as well.

“Our target is not only the walk-in visitor, not only retailers but we also hope that there will be contact between wholesale business owners. This is a good opportunity for them, not to go to Indonesia, spend their time, spend their money. We bring them here. Those who are going to exhibit are owners – they are business owners themselves,” he said.

Napitupulu said they are also willing to facilitate necessary arrangements on tours for the Indonesian participants. He cited a trip to banana plantations in Tagum City they have organized for the Indonesian participants on the sidelines of the 1st Indonesian Manufactured Products Expo in Davao City last July.

For this year, the Indonesia Consulate of Davao had already organized four delegations of businessmen to Indonesia. Napitupulu said this is still part of their mission of improving the bilateral trade relationship of the two countries. He said what they learned about these trade missions is to be more specific in the future and to ask the businessmen what exactly they need and what kind of people they need to talk to so that a more defined result will be created as well.Read more at:mermaid formal dresses | black formal dresses

GMT检测语言世界语中文简体中文繁体丹麦语乌克兰语乌兹别克语乌尔都语亚美尼亚语伊博语俄语保加利亚语僧伽罗语克罗地亚语冰岛语加利西亚语加泰罗尼亚语匈牙利语南非祖鲁语卡纳达语印地语印尼巽他语印尼爪哇语印尼语古吉拉特语哈萨克语土耳其语塔吉克语塞尔维亚语塞索托语威尔士语孟加拉语宿务语尼泊尔语巴斯克语布尔语(南非荷兰语)希伯来语希腊语德语意大利语意第绪语拉丁语拉脱维亚语挪威语捷克语斯洛伐克语斯洛文尼亚语斯瓦希里语旁遮普语日语格鲁吉亚语毛利语法语波兰语波斯尼亚语波斯语泰卢固语泰米尔语泰语海地克里奥尔语爱尔兰语爱沙尼亚语瑞典语白俄罗斯语立陶宛语索马里语约鲁巴语缅甸语罗马尼亚语老挝语芬兰语苗语英语荷兰语菲律宾语葡萄牙语蒙古语西班牙语豪萨语越南语阿塞拜疆语阿尔巴尼亚语阿拉伯语韩语马其顿语马尔加什语马拉地语马拉雅拉姆语马来语马耳他语高棉语齐切瓦语世界语中文简体中文繁体丹麦语乌克兰语乌兹别克语乌尔都语亚美尼亚语伊博语俄语保加利亚语僧伽罗语克罗地亚语冰岛语加利西亚语加泰罗尼亚语匈牙利语南非祖鲁语卡纳达语印地语印尼巽他语印尼爪哇语印尼语古吉拉特语哈萨克语土耳其语塔吉克语塞尔维亚语塞索托语威尔士语孟加拉语宿务语尼泊尔语巴斯克语布尔语(南非荷兰语)希伯来语希腊语德语意大利语意第绪语拉丁语拉脱维亚语挪威语捷克语斯洛伐克语斯洛文尼亚语斯瓦希里语旁遮普语日语格鲁吉亚语毛利语法语波兰语波斯尼亚语波斯语泰卢固语泰米尔语泰语海地克里奥尔语爱尔兰语爱沙尼亚语瑞典语白俄罗斯语立陶宛语索马里语约鲁巴语缅甸语罗马尼亚语老挝语芬兰语苗语英语荷兰语菲律宾语葡萄牙语蒙古语西班牙语豪萨语越南语阿塞拜疆语阿尔巴尼亚语阿拉伯语韩语马其顿语马尔加什语马拉地语马拉雅拉姆语马来语马耳他语高棉语齐切瓦语文本转语音功能仅限200个字符选项 : 历史 : 反馈 : Donate关闭

yellowmode Nov 23 '17, 02:07AM · Tags: fashion

Actress Kriti Kharbanda, whose latest movie is “Shaadi Mein Zaroor Aana”, believes there is nothing wrong in objectifying a woman’s beauty, as long as it is done aesthetically. Kriti earned popularity in the south Indian film industry. Earlier, actress Taapsee Pannu had mentioned a filmmaker’s obsession with showing a woman’s mid-riff, and Kriti too cited how he does it in an “aesthetic manner”.

At a time when body shaming has become rampant, Kriti says it stems from people’s narrow-minded perspective towards women. Often, women have been projected as eye candy and their mid-riffs are objectified. Asked about it, Kriti told IANS: “Well, let’s make it clear, women are sexier than men. They are a prettier gender than their male counterparts. And then, if a woman is comfortable showing her mid-riff on-screen, what is the other’s problem? Why does she face body shaming? Does a man face the same while going shirtless? I think objectifying women is not wrong if only her beauty is captured in an aesthetic manner.”

She stressed: “Like the way beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder, dirt also lies in the eyes of the beholder. They should change their perspective.”

Citing an example, Kriti said: “In the south, there is a celebrated Telugu film director name Raghavendra Rao, who is known for shooting women’s mid-riff in a certain manner. They are done in a very aesthetic manner and doesn’t look vulgar.

“Now, it is up to the audience how they are going to watch it. As long as the girl is comfortable acting in it, I see nothing wrong.”

Isn’t it true that in a sexual harassment case, it is the woman who is questioned about her clothes and lifestyle?

Kriti said: “Why do women have to face comments like ‘You are wearing short clothes, you are alluring and inviting men?’. In the daylight, if a girl covered from head to toe gets groped at a bus stop, who is to blame? Is she inviting someone?

“Like the way a woman covered from head to toe is not inviting someone, a woman flaunting her cleavage, is also not inviting anyone. She wears it because she owns and loves her body. No one has the right to look at her in a dirty way.”

Kriti made her Bollywood debut with the film “Guest Iin London” earlier this year after working in Kannada, Telugu and Tamil films for eight years.Read more at:http://www.marieaustralia.com/cocktail-dresses-australia | http://www.marieaustralia.com/bridesmaid-dresses

GMT检测语言世界语中文简体中文繁体丹麦语乌克兰语乌兹别克语乌尔都语亚美尼亚语伊博语俄语保加利亚语僧伽罗语克罗地亚语冰岛语加利西亚语加泰罗尼亚语匈牙利语南非祖鲁语卡纳达语印地语印尼巽他语印尼爪哇语印尼语古吉拉特语哈萨克语土耳其语塔吉克语塞尔维亚语塞索托语威尔士语孟加拉语宿务语尼泊尔语巴斯克语布尔语(南非荷兰语)希伯来语希腊语德语意大利语意第绪语拉丁语拉脱维亚语挪威语捷克语斯洛伐克语斯洛文尼亚语斯瓦希里语旁遮普语日语格鲁吉亚语毛利语法语波兰语波斯尼亚语波斯语泰卢固语泰米尔语泰语海地克里奥尔语爱尔兰语爱沙尼亚语瑞典语白俄罗斯语立陶宛语索马里语约鲁巴语缅甸语罗马尼亚语老挝语芬兰语苗语英语荷兰语菲律宾语葡萄牙语蒙古语西班牙语豪萨语越南语阿塞拜疆语阿尔巴尼亚语阿拉伯语韩语马其顿语马尔加什语马拉地语马拉雅拉姆语马来语马耳他语高棉语齐切瓦语世界语中文简体中文繁体丹麦语乌克兰语乌兹别克语乌尔都语亚美尼亚语伊博语俄语保加利亚语僧伽罗语克罗地亚语冰岛语加利西亚语加泰罗尼亚语匈牙利语南非祖鲁语卡纳达语印地语印尼巽他语印尼爪哇语印尼语古吉拉特语哈萨克语土耳其语塔吉克语塞尔维亚语塞索托语威尔士语孟加拉语宿务语尼泊尔语巴斯克语布尔语(南非荷兰语)希伯来语希腊语德语意大利语意第绪语拉丁语拉脱维亚语挪威语捷克语斯洛伐克语斯洛文尼亚语斯瓦希里语旁遮普语日语格鲁吉亚语毛利语法语波兰语波斯尼亚语波斯语泰卢固语泰米尔语泰语海地克里奥尔语爱尔兰语爱沙尼亚语瑞典语白俄罗斯语立陶宛语索马里语约鲁巴语缅甸语罗马尼亚语老挝语芬兰语苗语英语荷兰语菲律宾语葡萄牙语蒙古语西班牙语豪萨语越南语阿塞拜疆语阿尔巴尼亚语阿拉伯语韩语马其顿语马尔加什语马拉地语马拉雅拉姆语马来语马耳他语高棉语齐切瓦语文本转语音功能仅限200个字符选项 : 历史 : 反馈 : Donate关闭

yellowmode Nov 17 '17, 04:37AM · Tags: fashion

For someone who writes about fashion, I own some really ugly clothes. Currently I’m wearing a giant egg-shaped shirt that swamps the body and comes pre-disheveled — very Worzel Gummidge. I’ve matched it with a suit jacket with Herman Munster shoulders. My jeans are some strange hybrid, fashioned, like Frankenstein, from various different cast-offs.

Heinous is so hot right now. My colleagues nod in approval as they shuffle by in their £500 Gucci gardening clogs.

Is it me or has fashion become incredibly ugly? “Definitely, definitely,” says the 74-year-old shoe designer Manolo Blahnik, whose delicate crystal-embroidered stilettos and rainbow-coloured court shoes exemplify the essence of loveliness. He blames big business. “I think these very big organisations put huge pressure on a designer to produce something of the moment rather than focusing on something that is beautifully eternal. My definition or opinion of elegance is completely different to the version of elegance today. Elegance should be enduring. It should transcend fashion and trends.”

Much of the clothing on display at the SS18 shows was deliciously horrid. It was warped and awkward. It wobbled and flapped its way down the runway: trousers puddled at the ankles at Y/Project; bulbous tumour-like creations prolapsed from seemingly normal garments at Rick Owens; Christopher Kane, the designer responsible for rehabilitating the Croc as a style statement last year, offered shoes that looked like cleaning mops. Every catwalk seemed to offer a giant, clumpy trainer, oversized fleeces or coats wrapped in plastic like wipe-clean sofas.

Menswear is equally difficult: think cycling shorts worn with ill-fitting shirting or jackets that might have been purchased from the outdoor specialist Millets. The style muse of the season was the “average dad” — a point made most explicitly at the Balenciaga show, where models wore ill-fitting blazers and carried children down the runway. It’s becoming incredibly difficult to tell if a man is really, really geeky, perhaps an IT support worker, or just exceptionally fashionable.

Paul Surridge, the newly appointed creative director at Roberto Cavalli, thinks the trend for ugly clothes is a reaction to a glut of artifice and “perfection” projected through advertising and social media. “Fashion thrives on provocation,” says the designer. “It thrives on novelty. This epidemic of deliberately ugly or awkward pieces is about challenging this obsession with the artificial lifestyle. It’s a sign of the time that what feels current is something that isn’t so perfect and isn’t so insipid.”

Surridge isn’t following suit with Cavalli, the Italian house known for sensual gowns and flesh-baring frocks, for which he showed his first collection in September. “I’m working for a brand whose ideas of a woman are very traditional — it’s celebrated for the femininity, the beauty and the body,” he explains. “I have a creative responsibility to respect those codes. Cavalli is a very sensual brand and ugly doesn’t feel sensual.” Moreover, he says: “I think the Cavalli woman wants to feel beautiful.”

Don’t we all? Maybe not. Beautiful is boring, say many of today’s designers. Alessandro Michele of Gucci likes his models to look like individual eccentrics rather than the Italian seductresses of yore. “I like my casting to be as diverse and unpredictable as possible,” said the designer shortly before a SS18 show in which he dressed women in Lord Farquaad-style helmets and chinstraps and men in snug 1970s-style track shorts, Chelsea boots and — wait for it — long beige socks. “I don’t care about a dress,” he added of his pile-it-all-on approach and devil-may-care styling. “I care about the person inside it.”

There’s a long-held theory that ugliness and innovation go hand in hand. As Miuccia Prada said in 2012: “Ugly is attractive, ugly is exciting. Maybe because it is newer.”

Prada has always pushed the line of jolie laide, using prints and fabrics that play with themes of garishness or kitsch. She has also based collections on things she hates — she once did a whole collection based on golf-wear. Dries Van Noten works the same way, often starting a collection with a colour he loathes as inspiration. “I’m more inspired by things I don’t like,” he told the Financial Times earlier this year. “Nothing is so boring as something beautiful. I prefer ugly things, I prefer things which are surprising. It forces you to ask yourself questions.”

“Whenever you have designers who are exploring something that’s significantly new, it’s going to look, for the most part, strange and possibly ugly at first,” says the academic and fashion historian Valerie Steele. “When Poiret started doing his early designs at the beginning of the 20th century for the House of Worth, people were horrified by them. They thought, ‘What are these ugly experiments?’”

And shoppers do come round to more challenging looks. Let’s not forget that skinny jeans were once considered outré. “Our eye adjusts quite quickly to what might first appear ugly,” says Natalie Kingham, buying director of MatchesFashion.com. “Often it’s about comfort. Take the pool-slide phenomenon. The plastic slip-on shoe that was originally considered ugly is now seen as very luxe and wearable — and they sell well.”

Likewise, she points to the clumpy sandal, sock-boot, and exaggeratedly oversized coat as other examples of items with a challenging aesthetic that have become bestsellers.

For some, ugliness has been employed more strategically. In a fashion climate where it’s easy to become overwhelmed, a freaky shoe or a grotesque dress on the catwalk can provide a welcome jolt. But Christopher Kane finds it frustrating when ugliness is used for an easy headline. “I’m never doing something purely to be controversial,” he says. “It’s always because I like it. People just call it ugly because they don’t understand it. I was always brought up to think there’s no such thing as good or bad taste. They are just different.”

But what of his decision to work with Crocs, the manufacturers of clumpy foam resin shoes that have been compared to plastic hooves? “Doctors and lab folk wear them. That’s why I liked them,” he says. “The professions that wear them are full of the smart people who are shaping our world.”

Of this season’s mop shoes, his motives were simpler still. “I like cleaning up and I like mops!” He adds: “The collection was all about Cynthia Payne [the brothel-keeper who made headlines in the mid-1980s for entertaining members of the establishment] and the underbelly of the domestic space. I think the idea that she dominated everyone, she was strong and she was a bit of a monster as well — if that’s not beautiful then I don’t know what is.”

In contrast to many, Kane thinks fashion is too shackled by good taste. “Prada’s collections are great because she takes things that are ugly, and that she hates, and she finds a way to fall in love with it,” he says. “If we dumbed everything down to traditional ideas of beauty then we wouldn’t be where we are today. Nothing would move forward.”

Fashion should challenge conventions of beauty. And, as Kane points out: “It’s far more horrible to lift things from other people’s work or go to a vintage shop and make something exactly the same. Now, that’s ugly.”Read more at:plus size formal dresses australia | cheap formal dresses australia

yellowmode Nov 15 '17, 02:41AM · Tags: fashion
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